What Should I Feed My Dog?

We have all been there.

Whether you are a new dog owner… a new again dog owner… or you read an article that said what you’ve been feeding your dog is all wrong- we’ve all been there.

Standing in the store aisle or scrolling through a website- looking at all the options and wondering, “What do I feed my dog?”

“What is the healthiest food to feed my dog?”“What is the best kind of food for my dogs?”

“What is the best kind of food for my dogs?”

Do you trust the store clerk? Does he know what he’s talking about?

Do you trust online reviews? Did that person get paid to say that?

With so much attention placed on the pet industry, with controversies surrounding pet food ingredients and manufacturing processes- not to mention the new trends emerging… plus all the opinions; it’s enough to confuse anyone.

But, I’ll tell you right now what to feed your dog. It’s easy.

Your dog needs to be fed a well-balanced diet.

“But aren’t they all?”, you ask.

Unfortunately, they are not.

You notice I said your dog needs to be fed a well-balanced diet. What we’re talking about today goes beyond just choosing something off the shelf.

Once you know what a balanced diet is, choosing what to feed your dog becomes easy.

And I will help you figure it out.

Basic Requirements for Dog Nutrition

The key to a healthy dog is a healthy diet. And the key to a healthy diet is nutritional balance.

Ninety percent of a dog’s immune system is in the stomach’s lining- the microbiome. Nutrition
is about protecting and maintaining the strength of the microbiome.

Nutrition starts in cells with metabolic processes that break down food into fuel that cells use for maintenance, growth, and repair.

Digestion is converting that food to absorbable, metabolized nutrients that the body’s cells use to carry out all functions.

It is the disruption of these processes that leads to illness and health problems.

We’re not going to get into all that science stuff in this article, but know that healthy cells equal a healthy gut and a healthy gut equals a healthy dog.

So, a healthy diet for a dog will include an appropriate balance of nutrients and water, suited to his breed, age, lifestyle, and any other “life variables.”

Nutritional balance for your dog is one that supports his gut.

It’s All ‘Bout Tha Gut…

When it comes to figuring out what to feed a dog, it is all about the gut.

In other words, what can be digested by the body dictates what the diet should be. This holds true for food allergies and sensitivities, health conditions, and genetic predispositions.

For example, Malamutes have a genetic defect that causes zinc malabsorption (www.pedigreedoghealth.org), so their diet should be adjusted to account for that.

An elderly dog will have different nutritional requirements than a puppy. A growing puppy’s diet will differ from an adult dog with allergies.

The point I want to make is every dog is going to be different and so there is no “one dog food to feed them all.” Knowing what your dog can and cannot, or should and should not eat, is important to finding the right nutritional balance for him.

It’s not so much about choosing dog food for your dog, it’s about providing the appropriate nutrition for your dog.

A diet
simply is the appropriate nutritional balance to maintain health, whether for a dog, a cat, or you.

What Does A Body Good

Fundamentally, though, the basics of nutrition are the same. If you can satisfy those, it’s really about tweaking to find the right balance for your dog to suit his individual health needs.

And, that’s really how you should look at all dog food; commercial or homemade- is it nutritionally balanced so your dog can be healthy and thrive on it?

So, what does need to be in your dog’s diet?

To maintain healthy cellular function, your dog needs macronutrients, micronutrients, and water.

Macronutrients

The body gets energy through macronutrients: proteins, fats, and carbohydrates. Macronutrients are those that the body breaks down to release energy and fuel cellular activity. Cells are responsible for everything that happens in a body.

Protein is the foundation of any healthy diet. Proteins are a go-to source of energy for dogs. They are found in plants and animals, even legumes.

But to understand the importance of protein, you need to know it is the amino acids found in protein that are crucial to the diet.

Amino acids are vital for all cell growth, maintenance, and repair. They are the building blocks; the key to everything.

For a dog, there are twenty-two amino acids he needs for optimal cellular function. These are divided into essential and non-essential classifications.

Essential amino acids are those the body cannot produce on its own and must obtain them through food sources. Very few protein sources contain all the essential amino acids; this is why a varied diet can often be key to maintaining a healthy dog.

The liver can produce nonessential amino acids and therefore are not a dietary requirement, but are still important. Your dog needs the essential amino acids to produce the non-essential ones.

Your dog’s body will use both to keep and maintain cellular health.

Dietary fat is also important. Specifically, like proteins, it’s the fatty acids in fat that are important. Like amino acids, fatty acids fall into two categories- essential and non-essential.

Fatty acids maintain cell structure, help form hormones and lipids, and transport fat-soluble vitamins around the body. Besides helping maintain healthy cells; dietary fats are a source of energy and are important for brain health.

Fatty acids, sometimes referred to as omegas on ingredient lists, are als found in plant and animal sources, and in nuts and seeds. And, like proteins, having a varied diet will ensure that your dog receives enough fatty acids to maintain his healthy cells.

Carbohydrates are the sugars, starches, and fiber found in fruits, grains, vegetables, and dairy. These sugars and starches are broken down during digestion into simple sugars, mainly glucose. It is glucose that cells use for energy, making carbs a secondary fuel source for dogs. This leaves the amino acids and fatty acids for more important tasks like strengthening the dog’s immune system and repairing cells. 

But, carbohydrates are a sticky topic when talking about dog nutrition.

A dog can produce his own glucose, provided he’s been given adequate and quality sources of proteins and dietary fats. So he has no real dietary requirement for carbs.

It begs the question – why feed dogs carbohydrates at all? 

Good-quality carbohydrates do provide great benefits to any diet, including dogs. They are a source of vitamins and minerals needed by cells for maintaining health and function.

We will get into that messy topic later, but for now; know that dogs can digest carbohydrates and do benefit from the nutrients contained within. But it needs to be quality carbs which we will get into a bit later.

Micronutrients

Micronutrients are vitamins, minerals, and trace minerals found in food. Vitamins and minerals
work together to strengthen bones, heal wounds, and boost the immune system. They aid in the conversion of food into energy, repairing cell damage, and a host of other functions.

A dog only needs a small amount of micronutrients daily, but the absence of or an imbalance of them can have a tremendous impact on their health.

Vitamins come in two categories; fat-soluble and water-soluble. Fat-soluble vitamins are stored by the body and are transported around the body by fatty acids. Water-soluble vitamins are not stored and are needed daily.

Minerals work with vitamins to complete cellular tasks and some even work in pairs. Imbalances of vitamins and their mineral counterparts can cause health issues.

If you suspect your dog isn’t getting enough vitamins or minerals in his diet, please consult your veterinarian before adding a supplement to his food.

Water

Water plays a key role in the body too. It transports nutrients in and out of cells, aids in the digestion of food, and helps the body absorb nutrients. Water helps cool the body down and works to maintain a normal body temperature. It also transports water-soluble vitamins around the body.

Now that you know what the nutritional requirements are for a dog, let’s put this into context.

What Should My Dog Eat?

To understand what a dog’s diet should comprise, let’s take a quick look at his biology and history. 

30,000 Year Old Best Friend

Dogs first appeared in historical records about 30,000 years ago. Scientists speculate wolves began hanging around human settlements scavenging for scraps, eventually becoming more trusting of man until they were ingrained into everyday human life. It is this behavior that led to the evolution of dogs.

Now dogs and wolves share very similar biology; in fact, there is less than a 1% difference between their DNA. And they are also structurally similar. From the tips of their teeth to the digestive enzymes they produce; dogs, like wolves, are designed to eat meat.

This does not necessarily mean that dogs should eat wolf diets.

Wolves eat a diet high in protein with meats (and fats) ranging from deer to rabbits, and they get carbohydrates from predigested plant material found in the stomachs of their prey. This is called tripe. As such, wolves produce only a small amount of amylase; an enzyme needed to break down carbs.

Because of their relationship with man, dogs evolved differently from their wolf cousins. Their digestive tracts evolved to suit the lifestyle they adopted.

Dogs produce more of the enzyme amylase than wolves, an evolutionary adaptation to eating the same diet as man; the scraps and leftovers. (And, stealing unguarded plates! )

Dogs are
carnivores, but not strict, or obligate, like cats. They are facultative carnivores, designed to eat meat, but with the capacity to digest plants if necessary.

However, given the choice, though, dogs prefer meat over carrots any day.

And, as previously mentioned; what a body is designed to digest should dictate the diet.

What the Pet Industry Says

Nutrient profiles are created by the NRC or the National Research Committee on Animal Nutrition. They review published scientific research and generate nutritional requirements.

The Association of American Feed Control Officials, or AAFCO,
defines and establishes regulations for pet food and feed ingredients, and sets standards for nutritional adequacy. The AAFCO regulations refer to the maximum and/or minimum levels of only the nutrients that AAFCO considers essential to the health of a pet (<- that’s important to note).

For example, AAFCO requires that an adult dog food must contain at least 18% protein for a manufacturer to call it “complete and balanced.” But that does not necessarily mean that it is sufficient for your dog.

It should be noted that AAFCO also does not have established requirements on the amount of carbohydrates that a diet can or should contain. As such, it isn’t even listed on the guaranteed analysis.

AAFCO also works with the FDA to establish standards for package labeling and ingredient definitions. They require ingredients to comply with definitions, but they do not regulate the source of ingredients, their digestibility, or bioavailability.

It is important to note that AAFCO has no regulatory authority, and meeting AAFCO standards is voluntary. However, most states have adopted AAFCO regulations into law, and most pet food manufacturers do adhere to the minimum requirements.

Under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetics Act, pet food is required to be safe to eat, contain no harmful substances, be truthfully labeled and produced under sanitary conditions.

However, the FDA
does not require pet food to be approved before it is available to the market. They only monitor branding, health claims, and ingredient safety.

Pet food labels must follow the same regulations as human food labels.

What Your Vet Knows About Nutrition

It’s a common myth that veterinarians know nothing about pet nutrition. On the contrary, nutrition is integrated into veterinary school curriculums, but it isn’t necessarily the focus. Medicine and surgery are. And while continuing education is required to maintain a veterinary license, pet nutrition is just not a focus for some. It really is just up to the vet to educate themselves on pet nutrition as it is up to the pet owner to do the same. (www.drandyroark.com). 

There have been significant advances in animal nutrition and some veterinarians stay up-to-date on the latest research. However, it isn’t so much as does your vet have the knowledge, it’s more – Are you having that conversation with them?

Veterinarians are just like us; busy individuals who are subjected to the same marketing hype we all see on television and websites, even from manufacturers and vendors claiming they are the best. They don’t necessarily have the time to weed out subpar brands and tell you what to feed your dog. Nor is it necessarily their job. Does your doctor tell you to eat X brand over Y brand of cereal?

It’s up to you as the guardian of your pet to do your due diligence and find the diet best suited for your dog. And it is up to you to pay attention to your dog to ensure that the diet you choose is what is best for your dog and inform your veterinarian of any health concerns so that you can work together to adjust your dog’s diet as necessary.

This now brings us to the label.

Breaking the Code of The Pet Food Label

Now, remember that the FDA and AAFCO regulate pet food labeling and branding. They don’t regulate marketing or websites.

Don’t get sucked into pretty pictures and cute jingles. All this is designed to appeal to you- the pet parent. 

Ignore the hype and read the label.

It’s important to understand what you read on the label to know if you are making a good decision for your dog.

A Picture Is Not Worth A Thousand Words

The display panel is usually what you will see first in a store or online.

It’s designed to catch your eye and draw you in. But you cannot rely on those tantalizing pictures of pretty foods.

You must read the label. 

Besides telling you what the brand is and its intended use and life stage or the ‘what and who’ it’s for; the key information you want to look for on the front of the package is the protein rule.

The protein rule is an indicator of how much protein was present prior to processing; before water was removed and the food became packaged. It’s not an indication of how much is actually in the food after processing.

If you see:

• 100% or All: The food must contain only that protein ingredient and water. (for example, the label reads: XXXX, 100% Beef.)

• 95%: The named protein must be 95% without water sufficient for processing. (This usually ends up being about 30% protein after processing.)

• 25% or Dinner/Entrée/Formula/Recipe: The named protein must be 25% without water sufficient for processing and not include by-products or derivatives. (This usually ends up being about 10% protein or less after processing.)

Other terms refer to both protein plus another ingredient; this can be another protein, a vegetable, or grain.

• ‘And’ formula: The named combination must be 25% total with a minimum of 3% of either without water sufficient for processing. (For example, a label stating Lamb and Peas requires at least 3% of either lamb or peas. The same would be true for a bison and venison formula. The protein part of the combination will be less than 10% after processing.)

• 3%/’With’: The ‘with’ named ingredient must be a minimum of 3% without water sufficient for processing. (For example, a label stating XXXX with Beef requires at least 3% beef. Or, XXXX with Rice requires at least 3% rice.)

• ‘With-And’: The ingredient combination named is a minimum of 3% total without water sufficient for processing. (For example, a label stating XXXX with Beef and Sweet Potatoes requires that the beef and sweet potatoes together be at least 3% protein.)

• With ‘X’ Flavor: The food is flavored with the named source and must be listed in ingredients where the flavoring is sourced from, but the food is not required to contain the actual ingredient. (i.e. this will be a flavor sprayed on to make it taste good.)

Other terms you may see include natural, organic, human-grade, and holistic. While more for marketing, AAFCO regulates how these terms can be applied.

• Natural: Ingredients derived solely from plant, animal, or mined sources; either in an unprocessed state or subjected to processing but not subjected to chemical or synthetic alteration or processing. (i.e. there can be raw carrots, cooked carrots; steamed carrots but not carrots enhanced by synthetic or chemical means or altered to taste like [for example] turkey.) Keep in mind, ‘natural’ is a vague term. It does not refer to the freshness or quality of the ingredients. Ideally, the food should contain recognizable ingredients without the use of additives, preservatives, or artificial colors and flavors.

Side note: By-products refer to non-muscle meat; this can include the heart, lungs, and liver, as well as the undesirable stuff such as hooves and feathers. If you are unsure of the origin of a listed by-product, you can call the manufacturer and ask.  

• Organic: Any ingredient meeting the production and handling requirements of the USDA National Organic Program. At the time of this publication, the USDA requires organic pet food to meet the same requirements as organic human food; which states plant and animal sources are raised or produced without the use of pesticides, antibiotics, or growth hormones and the manufacturers are USDA compliant. The resulting product must be a minimum of 70% organic.       

• Human-grade: Every ingredient and the resulting product are stored; handled, processed, and transported in a manner complying with current regulations for Good Manufacturing Practices of Human-Edible Foods.

• Holistic: AFFCO and the USDA have not defined this term. While ‘holistic’ has a dictionary definition of “the consideration of the whole”, this is a marketing term used by pet food companies. Generally speaking, though, companies producing ‘holistic’ pet food are producing food from whole and organic sources, and probably adding extra ingredients to boost health benefits. These can include prebiotics, probiotics, enzymes, botanicals, and phytonutrients.

• USDA: Companies may display the USDA Organic seal if the resulting product is 100% organic or 95% organic by weight, excluding water and salt. If the resulting product is 70% organic; the company may state “made with organic ingredients” but cannot use the organic seal. Organic refers to all ingredients, not just protein sources.

On a related note; ‘Meal’ is a ground-up and dried ingredient without moisture. If a named protein source is listed with ‘meal’ following it, it is safe to assume the source was about 70% water prior to processing. This usually ends up at about 18% protein after processing. Like by-products, meals can be from desirable or undesirable sources.

Additionally, the Net Weight of dry, packaged, or canned products on the principal display panel is mandatory under FDA regulations. And the Company/Brand or Manufacturer’s name and contact information must be clearly displayed on the package somewhere.

However, in reality, the front panel is designed to grab your attention. The important stuff you need to know is on the information panel- which could be on the back, the sides, or divided up between them. 

Understanding The Numbers

The Informational Panel contains an ingredient list, guaranteed analysis, nutritional adequacy statement, and feeding guidelines.

This is where the important things are you’ll need to make your decision.

Please also note; there may be other statements, mostly for marketing purposes. Not to say that the manufacturer isn’t honest in their claims, just be discerning in what you read.

The Guaranteed Analysis is required on the label. It ensures the manufacturer’s product meets the required nutrient content at the minimum percentages of crude protein and crude fat and the maximum percentages of crude fiber and moisture. AAFCO does not establish content requirements for ash or carbohydrates. 

Ash is the term used to define the inorganic material left after the organic material has been burned and does not indicate if the ash was added to the food during processing.

It is important to note that the guaranteed analysis does not indicate what is actually in the food; only that minimums or maximums of certain AAFCO required ingredients are met.

The Nutritional Adequacy Statement: AAFCO regulations require a statement informing the consumer that the food is complete and balanced nutrition for the life stage for which it is intended: growth, reproduction, and/or maintenance. (Keep in mind, this is complete and balanced according to AAFCO.)

A product can meet this in one of three ways:

1. formulated for specific nutrient profiles based on the nutritional recommendations of the National Research Council;
2. completing a feeding trial using AAFCO feeding protocols; or
3. product is part of a family of products that have already met one of the conditions.

If pet food is tested and has met the AAFCO standards to be complete and balanced, then the following will appear on the package:

• (Product) is formulated to meet the nutritional levels established by the AAFCO Dog Food Nutrient Profiles for (life stage/species).

If pet food is proven complete through feeding trials, or a product from the same line, then the following will appear on the package:

• Animal feeding tests using AAFCO procedures substantiate that (Product) provides complete and balanced nutrition for (life stage/species).

The Feeding Guidelines are quantitative feeding directions for the life stage indicated in the nutritional adequacy statement and are required on all “complete and balanced” pet foods. It must state, at a minimum, the amount in cups per given body weight and at what frequency. 

This is only a guideline. 

I repeat- this is only a guideline.

A dog’s breed, activity level, and any health issues will often be a determining factor as to how much he should be given to eat daily and it may not be the amount listed in the guidelines. 

Pay attention to your dog’s body.

At his ideal weight- purebred or mix-breed; you should be able to feel his ribs when you run your hand down his side but not see them. When you look at him from above; you should see a dip in his bodyline towards his rear- think of an hourglass shape. When you look at him from a side view, you should see his chest and stomach taper into an abdominal tuck- think Nike swoosh.

PetMD has this great tool: Healthy Weight Calculator

And now- the ingredient list. Nothing else you’ve read on the package will have any value unless it’s compared to the ingredients.

The Ingredient List is the most important thing you will need to read. As previously stated, AAFCO requires ingredients to be listed by weight only, in most to least. It does not require amounts to be listed. The weight of each ingredient is determined prior to processing.

Whole proteins are about 70% water. The ingredients listed as ‘meal’ are dry with about 10% water prior to processing. When comparing ingredients, it is important to convert them to a Dry Matter Basis first. 

This DMB calculation works for any diet, including canned foods.

To do this, look at the guaranteed analysis and subtract the moisture percentage from 100. Convert this number to a decimal. (i.e. 50% would be 0.5) Next, divide the guaranteed analysis numbers of crude protein, crude fat, and crude fiber by this decimal. The result is the percentage of that nutrient on a dry matter basis.

Let’s look at an example. Here is the guaranteed analysis from XXXX brand food:

AAFCO only requires the first four from the list to be on the guaranteed analysis. The rest of it, the manufacturer volunteered to share.

Let’s start with the protein.

100- 10% (moisture)= 90%; converted to decimal form =0.9. Now take 24% (crude protein) divided by 0.9= 26%. This particular brand of food contains 26% protein.

The rest of the calculations produce 16% fat and 4.4% fiber. Remember that AAFCO does not set requirements for carbohydrates.

Carbohydrates are needed in the manufacturing of kibble (it’s a structural thing) but remember that dogs do not have a dietary requirement for them.

To calculate the carbs, subtract the percentages of protein, fat, moisture, and ash from 100. Then use that number in the DMB formula.

You’ll see that this food does not contain ash. So, 100-24(protein) -16(fat) -4.4(fiber) -10(moisture) = 45.6%. Using that in the DMB formula yields 50.6% carbohydrates. It’s probably a bit less when the other percentages this manufacturer has included are factored in but, you get the idea.

This actually is a lot of carbs, but we will talk about that a bit later.

Let’s look at one more for practice.

Take 100- 10% (moisture)= 90% and convert to decimal form; which is =0.9. Now take 38% (crude protein) divided by 0.9= 26%. This brand of food contains 42% protein.

And the same calculation results in 20% fat and 3.8% for fiber. Now 100- 38-18-3.5 gives you 40.5% as the maximum carbs. Using this number in the DMB calculation yields 45% carbs.

Still kinda high, but remember dry dog kibble uses carbs to hold the kibble’s shape and not necessarily for its nutritional value.

These numbers are important when you start comparing dog food.

Can’t We All Just Get Along?

Remember when I said that pet food was a hot topic?

Among some of the hot issues, there is the argument about ingredients. There is no one school of thought when it comes to what constitutes a balanced dog diet.

Before the domestication of dogs; when they were still wolves, a balanced diet was about 56% protein, 30% fat, and 14% carbs; likely from tripe (www.dogfoodadvisor.com). Domestication brought about evolutionary adaptations that allowed dogs to eat what man ate.

Now, the pet industry has also set a standard. It’s 18-32% protein, 8-32% fat, and 46-74% carbs.  

Some canine nutritionists suggest a ‘zone’ diet mirrored after the Sears’ Zone Diet of 30% protein, 30% fat, and 30% carbohydrates (www.whole-dog-journal.com).

Raw feeders will tell you to mirror an ancestral diet because of a dog’s ability to produce his own glucose, while others advocate for alternative diets for environmental reasons. And others will say that what the industry has set as “balanced nutrition” is perfectly acceptable.

So, who’s right?

Are you ready for this?

Your Dog!

Every dog is different, as I said earlier. A dog’s age, lifestyle, activity levels, health concerns, and even breed are all variables in finding the right diet for him.

And what can be digested by your dog should dictate what he eats.

So, when it comes to finding the right diet for your dog, it’s going to come down to the ingredients themselves and how your dog utilizes them.

When we talk about dogs, there are appropriate sources of proteins, fats, and carbs and inappropriate ones. There are things your dog can eat, things he shouldn’t eat, and things he may be intolerant to due to his specific health problems.

The key to a healthy diet for your dog is what his nutritional balance is.

Evaluating Dog Food Ingredients

There are quite a few diets out there and there is no ‘one to feed them all.’

Whether you choose kibble for its ease and convenience or feed raw because of health concerns- it’s all about the quality of the ingredients.

When we talk about the quality of ingredients, we talk about the biological value
of that ingredient or its amount of amino acids plus its digestibility. 

Digestibility is the percentage of available nutrients plus undigestible content.

For example, an egg has a biological value of 100; it is complete in amino acids and is highly digestible. No part of the egg is unused by the body.

This makes it a high-quality nutritional source.

Potatoes, on the other hand, have a biological value of about 34 making them a poor-quality nutritional source. It has value in the vitamins and minerals it can provide, but a good portion of the potato is not usable by the body.

When we start evaluating diets, it’s really about evaluating the ingredients they contain. Finding the right diet for your dog is about finding what nutrients he thrives on.

So, let’s talk about these diets.

You Have Your Choice Between Chicken or Beef or …

Kibble is a popular choice for dog diets. And there are thousands of options, making it difficult to decide which one your dog needs.

But remember that I said to ignore those pretty pictures and read the ingredient list.

When you read the ingredient list, you are looking for the quality of ingredients in relation to what your dog can or should eat. It’s about species appropriateness. For instance, what’s appropriate for a horse to eat is not the same as what is appropriate for a dog to eat. 

As a refresher; a dog’s body is designed to digest and utilize animal proteins for amino acids and animal fats for fatty acids.

And a dog can digest carbohydrates, but it is not necessarily required in the diet because a dog’s body can produce its own glucose for cellular energy.

Knowing that, let’s evaluate some popular dog foods.

First, look at what the first ingredient is. Remember, AAFCO requires ingredients to be listed by their pre-processed weight. This first ingredient is the most, weight-wise.

Next, identify the proteins and where they appear in the list.

Proteins can be from animals, plants, and legumes. Are these whole sources, ‘meals’, or ‘by-products’? Are there filler proteins like peas or soybeans?

The further down the list the ingredients appear, the less they are in amount by weight.

Let’s look at an example.

Notice the first ingredient? Ground yellow corn.

Just by that first ingredient, this is not a good choice for dogs. 

Corn has a biological value of about 36. It is low in amino acids and low in digestibility. This means, and please excuse the bluntness, your dog will crap out more undigested material than his body will absorb in usable nutrients.

Corn is often used in so-called ‘diet foods’, which is no way to diet. (But that is a discussion for another time). It’s also not a canine species-appropriate food. Dogs do not need corn.

If you need further proof of the poor quality of this food, look at the second ingredient- meat and bone meal.

If meat is not named, then the source of the meat could be anything. And trust me, you don’t want to know where it could have come from.

Avoid unnamed sources of meat.

Same with fat- avoid unnamed sources of fat. These can also come from questionable sources, even leftover cooking oils.

If you still have not put that bag back on the shelf, look at the preservative.

BHA is a known carcinogen.

Carcinogens cause health problems, including cancer.

Ingredient splitting is the practice of dividing a more abundant ingredient into smaller portions. This usually happens with grains but you can see it with vegetables too. This is done to raise a meat source to a higher position on an ingredient list to mislead you to believe that there is more than what actually went into the recipe. Subsequently, this lowers the grain or vegetable to make it appear there is less than what is actually there.

Another thing to note is the salt rule. Salt, on average is about 0.4% of the ingredients; which is less than 1% based on DMB calculations. The ingredients listed after salt are also less than 1%.

Let’s try another.

Notice the first ingredient.

In fact, look at the first fifteen ingredients. All named sources of proteins. You know exactly what your dog will eat. 

And you notice the whole egg. And that’s good as eggs are complete in amino acids, which your dog’s cells need for everything they do.

The fats are from named sources as well.

Dehydration and freeze-drying are food processing methods in which food can be preserved for a long time by extracting moisture and inhibiting the growth of microorganisms. Freeze-drying has less effect on a food’s taste than normal dehydration does.

Mixed tocopherols are a type of vitamin E and work by naturally reducing the oxidation of ingredients, often extending the shelf life of products. This is a better preservative than BHA.

To know how many carbs this one contains, don’t forget your DMB calculations.

However, by comparison, this is a good kibble.

Even the carbs are good. Your dog doesn’t really need them but will benefit from these whole and high-quality named sources of vegetables.

When evaluating carbs, you do want whole over split or processed ones, and you want those with a low glycemic index.

The glycemic index is a numerical value assigned to foods based on how slowly or how quickly they cause increases in blood glucose levels. Lower GI values slowly increase blood sugar, while the higher the number, the more quickly it will increase blood sugar. Spikes in blood sugar can cause problems, especially in animals that do not need extra glucose.

We’ll get into that one at a later date, too.

So, What’s Wrong with Dog Kibble?

There are two major flaws when choosing a kibble diet for your dog.

The first is the ingredients. AAFCO regulates the types of ingredients but not their sources. There are also no regulations regarding the quality of ingredients.

So, while the package may say whole or deboned chicken, there is no way to know the quality of that chicken prior to processing- unless you call the manufacturer.

The same holds true for the generic ‘meat’ seen on some ingredient lists. These sources of meat could be anything from roadkill to diseased livestock to euthanized animals. Without calling the manufacturer, you won’t know.

But, I doubt any will fess up to it if you asked. 

Aflatoxins are often found in poorly stored grains and are resistant to high temperatures. Kibbles high in grains have the potential to be contaminated.

Aflatoxins can cause cancer (www.dogsnaturally.com).

The other major problem is the manufacturing process itself. The majority of kibble is processed by a method called extrusion. Extrusion
involves mixing ingredients to form a doughy substance and cooking it at an extremely high temperature. The dough is then extruded to form shapes.

These high temperatures kill bad bacteria as well as good ones, and the process denatures proteins, fats, vitamins, and minerals. It also introduces carcinogens into the kibble (www.thetruthaboutpetfood.com; www.thefamersdog.com).

Synthetic premixes of vitamins and minerals are mixed in to add back the nutritional value that was lost during processing, but they are not of the same quality or efficacy as the original, natural, and unprocessed sources.

In fact, synthetic anything is hardly the same as organic or natural.

Among the high-end kibble options, you will see holistic, organic, and human-grade dog food options. These may use regulated and better-quality ingredients but if their processing methods are the same, then those ingredients are subjected to the same denaturing that happens with all kibble manufactured by extrusion.

Slow-baked, freeze-dried, and dehydrated dog kibbles are alternatives to the extrusion method. While not perfect, they do a better job of keeping nutrients intact during the manufacturing process.

With any kibble, though, read the ingredients. A better processing method means nothing if the ingredients aren’t quality sources themselves.

Canned dog food is much like kibble. Typically, it contains more meat and more water. It is made using a different process that can preserve the quality of nutrients somewhat better, but the rules are the same. Read the ingredients.

Now, I don’t usually recommend kibble as a diet. But situations change all the time, and kibble may be the best option for your circumstances.

And, that’s ok. 

If you need to feed your dog off the shelf, opt for canned over kibble. If canned food isn’t an option and you need to feed a dry dog food; I do recommend slow-baked (or oven-baked), freeze-dried, or dehydrated kibble over any extruded version.

And try for organic or human-grade ingredients as the regulations are stricter.

Don’t forget to read the ingredient list. As in the examples above, version two is much better than the first one.

Look for whole, named sources of animal proteins, definitely in the first spot, but the second and third are also ok. The more quality proteins that appear higher on the list the better. Ideally, proteins should outnumber carbohydrates.

Look for whole, named fruits and vegetables with low glycemic index numbers. You want these to appear after as many proteins as possible, in the fourth position or lower. You’re not going to get away with having no carbs because of the way it’s processed but you can go for better quality ones.

You also want named sources of fat; animal sources are better than plant sources. Know that once you open the bag, oxidation starts – those fats break down- and you have about three weeks before the kibble is rancid.

Keep this in mind when deciding how much to buy. Bulk options may not be that cost-effective if you throw out more than you use. Keeping the kibble in the bag and closing it tightly will help decrease the rate of oxidation.

Avoid dyes, added sugars, synthetic vitamins and minerals, and synthetic preservatives.

It’s absolutely okay to rotate protein varieties. You are not limited to feeding your dog just one protein option. Variety is optimal for providing all the amino acids and fatty acids your dog needs.

Grains or No Grains- That is the Question

Grains are a hot debate in the pet industry as well- as if there wasn’t enough going on!

Grain-free does not mean that it is free from carbohydrates.

Dogs can have the same health issues as people do. Sugar intolerances, gluten allergies, diabetes, and so on.

Eliminating grains or gluten; feeding a grain or gluten-free diet may benefit dogs with known allergies or intolerances. But know that those dog foods compensate by having more legumes, such as peas or lentils; or starches such as potatoes in the recipe. 

A higher amount of some legumes and starches may cause other problems, such as DCM.

Dilated cardiomyopathy, or DCM, is characterized by an increase in heart size due to the weakened pumping ability of the heart muscle. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to DCM, and some may develop it from a lack of certain amino acids in their diets.

A common link among dogs affected by DCM is consuming foods containing peas, lentils, other legume seeds, or potatoes as main ingredients, rather than meat-based proteins (www.akc.com) as main ingredients.

Don’t let this scare you.

Dogs can have peas and lentils, just not in high amounts, so pay attention to that ingredient list. 

Be careful about the prescription kibbles. They may come “recommended”, but read that ingredient list. Pay attention to what and where those ingredients are on the list. Many of them have corn as the main ingredient and as you know- corn is not species-appropriate for dogs.

Be careful of “health concern” diets as well. Cranberries may help with UTIs but not if they are less than 1%, showing up after salt. A kibble may claim to benefit diabetic dogs but not if it contains too many carbs that raise blood sugar too quickly.

If you suspect your dog may have allergies to any ingredient- or any health concerns at all, please consult your veterinarian first. Do not go arbitrarily switching up your dog’s diet, as it can cause more problems. Have your dog tested and work with your veterinarian to pinpoint the cause of the allergy or illness and then find the appropriate diet for your dog.

Remember that all dogs are different.

Meat, No Meat – Wait, You Call That Meat?

As with many things, the pet food industry is not immune to issues surrounding factory farming and sustainable practices. You start seeing things like kangaroo and alligator meat to crickets and lab-cultured mice being used in place of beef and chicken raised in poor conditions.

You even hear people talk about turning dogs into canine vegetarians in response to these issues.

We could talk all day long about how to fix this, that, or the other in the pet food market. Everyone has an opinion… and we can save that for another time.

But, political views aside, you need to look at these alternative ingredients as -” Does it meet my dog’s nutritional needs?”

Nontraditional meat sources are ok. In fact, it may benefit dogs who are allergic to chicken, eggs, and beef.

Remember to work with your vet if you believe your dog does have an allergy.

Picky eaters may benefit from nontraditional meats, too. They may find things like rabbit, quail, duck, lamb, even kangaroo meat, especially yummy.

Remember to read the ingredient list. You want named sources of proteins, fats, and low glycemic carbohydrates.

Vegetarianism isn’t something you usually think about when you start talking about dog diets. The foundation of a vegetarian diet is fruits, grains, legumes, beans, and vegetables. But we start to look at what are species-appropriate ingredients when building such a diet for dogs.

Eliminating animal sources of amino acids and fatty acids means that you compensate for them in other ingredients. In the case of vegetarians, it is by adding more plant proteins and such, and/or supplements.

We’ve discussed a dog’s need for vegetables, fruits, and the like. While he can digest and use quality plant sources, he really doesn’t need much of them, if at all. A dog can produce his own glucose for cellular energy.

With a vegetarian dog diet, you run the risk of an imbalanced diet; low on essential amino acids and fatty acids; which can cause DCM if you are compensating for those animal proteins with plant ones.

It can also be too high in carbs which can spike blood sugar. High blood sugar is often a precursor to other diseases. 

Feeding a vegetarian diet to dogs can also cause an imbalance of vitamins and minerals; which causes their own set of health issues.

When you add a supplement to compensate for this a dog would naturally obtain through animal proteins and fats, you are adding the synthetic version. It never works in the same way in the body as the natural source.

In theory, this diet could work for dogs who show a need for it, but it can potentially do more harm than good if you do not do it correctly. It is highly recommended to do this under the direct supervision of a veterinary trained nutritionist (www.bbc.com).

Alternatively, crickets and lab-grown meats are emerging onto the market. This could be an option if you live a vegetarian lifestyle and want that for your dog.

Crickets, comparably, are fairly complete in amino acids and omegas making them a viable protein source. Cricket-sourced proteins may help dogs with allergies.

Cricket farms have a substantially lower carbon footprint, making crickets an eco-friendly option to factory-farmed protein sources (www.petfoodindustry.com).

Aside from that oogie feeling at the thought of your dog eating crickets (I’m even cringing just writing it), he actually could do quite well on them.

Cultured, or lab-grown proteins, offer another solution to eco-conscience or meat-opposed pet owners. Using yeast as hosts, essential proteins are produced and are then used to create nutritionally dense, non-animal-based foods (www.new-harvest.org). While still in the early phases, this would be something to keep on your radar should it hit a market near you.

So, if you are shopping around for dog kibble and are considering an alternative or exotic protein; non-traditional animal sources are ok, as are crickets.

I don’t recommend vegetarian diets. Dogs just aren’t designed to be vegetarians and you could cause more harm than you intend.

I do recommend eco-friendly pet foods, just do your research. Make sure that the company’s practices line up, they should be practicing what they preach.

As always, read the label. Alternatives to beef, chicken, and pork are fine as long as they are nutritionally balanced for your dog.

The Au Naturale Dog

Pet diets often follow those of humans when it comes to trends or health concerns. I want to encourage you to not look at them from the viewpoint of what you think is best, or what may be working for you but from what is best for your dog.

Remember that we talked about species-appropriate ingredients as well as what your dog’s nutritional needs are. What his body can digest is what should be in his diet.

One of those trends is the ketogenic diet for dogs. Much like keto for people, it emphasizes low amounts of low glycemic carbohydrates, high amounts of healthy fats, and moderate amounts of quality proteins. It forces the body to burn fat for fuel instead of carbohydrates through the use of ketone bodies produced by the liver. 

This is called ketosis.

And, if you remember, that is exactly what a dog’s body is designed to do naturally. 

Research suggests a ketogenic diet may lower blood sugar significantly (www.ketopetsanctuary.com). Lowering blood sugar can trigger anti-inflammatory responses that improve cellular function.

Remember- healthy cells -> healthy gut -> healthy dog.

In many case studies, a keto pet diet improved the lives of dogs diagnosed with severe and/or chronic illnesses.

Much like some human diet plans, a PREY (or PMR) model dog diet eliminates processed foods. It’s formulated on the principle that your dog should eat what his ancestors ate. The PREY diet includes whole, wild prey animals and does not include added plant sources, such as fruits and vegetables, except for what he may obtain by tripe. With a PREY diet, you are essentially feeding a whole animal to your dog.

BARF
(Biologically Appropriate Raw Food) is similar to PREY. It is a complete and carefully balanced blend of raw meat and bone and includes fruits and vegetables. With the BARF method, you can choose the parts you want to include or exclude, (i.e. organ meats and muscle meat, without fur or beaks or any other undesirable parts.) And, you have the added benefit of including fruits and vegetables.

These dog diet model methods- Keto, PREY, and BARF, emphasize a natural approach, mirroring what canine ancestors, wild dogs, and wild cousins (the wolf) eat, and what a dog’s body is designed to digest.

Raw and natural diets, such as these, are very beneficial for dogs. In fact, eliminating processed anything in favor of natural foods is always better.

Under the guidance of a canine nutritionist and your veterinarian, you can formulate a homemade meal plan for your dog that he can do very well.

There are a few drawbacks to preparing homemade meals for your dog. You are handling raw meat and you are at risk for food-borne diseases such as salmonella and listeria; not just for your dog, but also for you.

You also need to plan meals. Throwing something together just will not cut it. Take a class or consult a canine nutritionist to help you. Oftentimes, you may not know about a nutritional imbalance until it starts causing symptoms, which could take a while to appear.

It’s not like your dog can actually tell you if something isn’t working, so pay attention. Keep a journal.

If preparing raw at home just isn’t your thing, there are commercial options available either in a refrigerated pet aisle or on delivery. As always, read those labels.

I do recommend a homemade diet. In fact, it’s my first recommendation above all other diet options. You have more control over the ingredients and it eliminates processed foods, synthetic vitamins, and preservatives. It keeps key nutrients intact, as well.

But even among the raw feeders, the camp is divided as to which type. 

So, I will tell you this:

Do what feels comfortable to you. 

If you like the idea of raw, but don’t feel comfortable feeding truly raw; you can absolutely lightly cook your dog’s meal.

If you don’t have the kitchen capacity or resources available to feed raw, you can absolutely sign up for a raw meal plan delivery.

There are even kibble options if you want to ease into it. Or, have any other circumstances where preparing a raw meal is not ideal.

If you do opt for the all-in raw diet, please supervise your dog’s mealtime.

Especially, if you feed bones. I don’t recommend feeding bones but, again, do what feels comfortable for you.

And, make sure that you work with your vet and a nutritionist so that you can properly prepare meals to contain the right amounts of protein, fat, and low glycemic fruits and vegetables.

The Match Game

So, we’ve talked about these different types of diets. Now, let’s talk about how you’re going to decide which one to try.

First, look at your dog.

The age of your dog plays a key role in his diet. Puppies are growing and developing and require more macronutrients and micronutrients than an adult dog.

Likewise, a senior dog will require slightly different amounts of nutrients than an adult dog to account for age-related ailments such as arthritis.

Your dog’s lifestyle is another key indicator. Working dogs and highly active dogs have higher nutritional requirements, typically more than the minimums set by AAFCO. But be careful, even though they require more, they still are at risk of becoming overweight from overfeeding. Make sure you are paying attention to his body composition.

Genetics can play an important role in diets. Some dogs are genetically predisposed to certain conditions that affect how the body processes nutrients.

Or, because of their genetics, they run the risk of developing conditions that require adjustments to their diets. The Pedigree Dog website (www.pedigreedoghealth.org) has a great list of dogs and their known predispositions.

It’s a good idea to research your dog’s breed, or the breeds that created his unique mix, to know what his risks are and how his diet should compensate for them. Talk with your vet about any diet adjustments you want to make.

Of course, things can happen in life that warrants dietary considerations. I call these life variables. Diets need to be adjusted for pregnant and nursing dams (female dogs).

Your vet may recommend dietary changes after surgery or to combat illnesses. Allergies also may improve with certain diets.

Second, look at your lifestyle.

Not all situations are the same, and you need to provide for your dog within your means. Kibble is not always ideal, but sometimes it is the best option you have. And while I do recommend homemade; you just may not have the kitchen capacity or work schedule to truly devote to it.

And that is okay.

I aim to provide you with the information you need to make the best decision for your dog; whatever that may be.

A healthy dog is what is most important.

How To Know If a Diet Works For Your Dog

Once you’ve figured out what diet you feel will work best for your dog and what you feel comfortable providing- how do you tell if it’s working? If it is benefiting your dog or if it’s not.

It isn’t always easy to get a dog on a scale, especially the big dogs. But as we’ve previously talked about; your dog’s ideal weight has three indicators.

You should be able to feel his ribs when you run your hand down his side but not see them. If you can visibly see his ribs; he is underweight. If you cannot feel his ribs, he is overweight. When you look at him from above; you should see a dip in his body line towards his rear, like an hourglass. If there is no hourglass shape, then your dog is overweight. Too much of one and he is underweight. Likewise, if there is no Nike swoosh; no tapering of his chest towards his stomach, then he is overweight. And underweight if there is too much of one.

It’s a simple fix to adjust portions at mealtime. Don’t be extreme about it, do it in incremental amounts and watch for improvements. If your dog’s weight does not improve in the direction you need it to, consult your veterinarian. There may be other factors at play.

The skin and coat of your dog are good indicators if he’s getting appropriate nutrients. Whether short or long, wired or fluffy, a dog’s coat should have a good texture and shine. His skin should be smooth and supple. Dry or brittle coats, dry skin, dandruff, bald patches, rashes, and growths are signs that something is not right.

It could be something simple like not enough omegas, or maybe he is getting something he shouldn’t- like sugar. Check those ingredients again. A simple fix may be to consider an omega supplement or re-evaluate his dog treats. If you have made these adjustments and still do not see any signs of improvement, consult your vet. Some allergies to ingredients manifest as skin and coat problems.

Your dog’s eyes should be clear and bright. His ears should be free of discharge and have very little or no wax. The nose is moist, not overly wet or dry, or cracked. Gums should be a healthy shade of pink.

Dogs aren’t usually prone to cavities. Cavities are caused by specific bacteria that metabolize sugars into acids, which erode teeth. This bacteria isn’t present in a dog’s mouth usually but some sweet treats can start this process.

The proof is in the poop. It should be brown, hold its shape and be soft -and on a regular schedule if you feed on a regular schedule. You should note the amount your dog poops. If he is utilizing and absorbing nutrients properly, it should not be a significant amount. Un-digestible materials will increase the amount you see.

Don’t be alarmed by one-offs; occasional loose stools or diarrhea is not uncommon. It’s normal for a dog to get upset tummies now and then. A dog’s body is designed to respond quickly to such things and to eliminate the thing that causes the upset. Make a note of it and if your dog’s system doesn’t get back on track within a few days, you may need to see your vet.

Definitely see your vet if your dog has blood present in stools or diarrhea, persistent vomiting or diarrhea, he is lethargic, or has a loss of appetite.

The Moon Method

You have done your research, and you have found a brand that you think is best or you are switching to homemade.

You are ready to introduce it to your dog. Simply follow the moon method.

Dogs’ stomachs are pretty resilient but even experts recommend slow integrations rather than rapid changes.

The moon method is simply a way to transition to a new food with minimal upset. This can be done whether you feed kibble, canned, commercial raw, or traditional homemade. 

Imagine your dog’s bowl as the moon. To start switching your dog to a new food, add 3/4 old food and 1/4 new food. In a few days, mix it at 1/2 old and 1/2 new. And a few days after that, it’s 1/4 old and 3/4 new food. In about 2 to 2 1/2 weeks, you can give him 100% new food.

Keep in mind, this entire time and after the switch, you are monitoring your dog for signs his nutrition isn’t optimal.

This works for introducing new foods as well as a rotation diet. Rotation diets are simply alternating protein sources, so your dog gets the full array of amino acids he needs.

You can also provide a mixed diet; you just add the different flavors together- like the chicken and the beef varieties of XXX brand. A mixed diet can also provide a more complete variety of essential amino acids. And keep things flavorful for your pup.

Last Bits of Advice

I hope this takes away some of the confusion and overwhelm you. Finding a good diet for your dog is as easy as finding one for yourself.

Just read those labels.

Talk to your vet if you suspect your dog to have any ailments.

Consult a veterinary nutritionist; especially if you decide on homemade diets. One can be found here at www.vetnutrition.com, and they also run the Pet Diet (www.petdiets.com ) site to help you plan recipes.

You can also take a class on pet nutrition.

By all means, let your dog guide you. He’ll let you know if something isn’t right, so trust that you know your dog best.

To help you do that, I created a daily dog planner printable. You can print it out as many times as you need or add it to a digital planner to help you keep track of your dog’s health, meals, treats, activities, and more. Get it on my resource page.

To your dog’s health and yours,

Desiree & Tucker James